Posted December 23, 2010 salut la mienne est montée en 13,5T Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted December 23, 2010 :slow: le mien est un 23t charbons super stock rz de chez tamiya avec le vario du carton. mon pote a essayer un 14t onyx charbons avec le pignon de 18 et les pignons intermediaires du carton :ça marche bien mais manque de couple et là on va essayer un 17t 3300 kv brushless de mon rc10 b4 dès que j'aurai reçu mes pignons:sick: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted December 23, 2010 Bizzare l'histoire de vos pignons... Sur la mienne j'ai un speed passion 10.5R, et au club il y en à une en 13.5. La pignonnerie utilisé avec des pignons moteur TAMIYA ne s'use pas. N'y aurait t'il pas un souci de callage? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted December 23, 2010 :serious-business: avec mes copains on se pose la question ! sinon je cale en suivant les trous selon le pignon et la petite plaque en carton derriere le moteur. mais je vais vous mettre une photo des pignons ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted December 24, 2010 Bonjour à tous ça fait longtemps que je n'ai pas posté un message ni répondu aux messages. Je viens de détruire la carro de ma Mini. En échange j'ai acheté la carro de la Fiat 500 Abarth. Donc j'ai du transformé mon chassis M-05S en M-05M . Mais la carro Fiat est plus large que celle de la Mini. Ma question est est-ce que les jantes de la Fiat sont plus large que celles de la Mini. Ou est-ce que je peux mettre des calles pour élargir les voies. Bonne fëtes à tous et comme on dit chez nous " E gudde Rutsch an d'Neit Joer " Ciao Leo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted December 27, 2010 ...dès que j'aurai reçu mes pignons... Salut Anoa !! Bon y a un message là :=B: Je vais m'en occuper cette semaine... Je te tiens au jus. Les fêtes de noël se sont bien passées ?? tu as été gaté ? Tu as eu ton enveloppe de billets pour la peinture de la "Cooper" (la vrai ce coup-ci) @+ Olivier Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted December 27, 2010 Upgrades used in this build: Tamiya M-Chassis Aluminum Damper Set (54000) Tamiya M05 Aluminum Motor Plate (54194) Tamiya M05 Aluminium Front Upright (54177) Tamiya 5mm Claimping Wheel Hubs (53823) Tamiya 5mm Blue Alloy Ball Nuts (53640) Tamiya TL01 Suspension Shaft Set (53301) Tamiya M03 Assembly Universal Shaft Set (53597) Tamiya DF-03 Heat Sink Bar Set (53924) Tamiya M-05 Alu. Racing Steering Set (54191) Tamiya M-05 Alu. Steering Link (54192) Tamiya M-05 Alu. Steering Post (54193) Tamiya M-05 Lightweight Aluminum Battery Holder (54224) M-05 Pro build Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted December 27, 2010 :drunk: alors l'chef ! le coxon ça va pas lui mettre les dents au gamain !:pissedoff: et toi vieille serie ton "m" c'est pour quand ? :in-love:un p'tit m pour le chef ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted December 28, 2010 Ah oui j'avoue !! elle est sympa cette cox... faut pas que le frangin voit ca :grin: il va être chaud... Bon faut que je prépare ma charette pour la semaine prochaine moi :you seem to be seri @+ Olivier Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted February 5, 2011 Review: Tamiya M05 Pro Tamiya has recently released a race-spec version of the M-05 chassis, designated the M-05 Pro. The new M-Chassis includes quite a few of Tamiya’s aftermarket option parts and, as with all of Tamiya’s Mini cars, this one has multiple personalities. You can assemble the M-05 Pro in a variety of wheelbases: short, to fit the old school Mini Cooper body; long, to fit the newer BMW Mini body; or mid-length, to fit the Suzuki Swift body. Growing up, the Mini Cooper has always been one of my favorite cars. In fact, before I was born, my dad had a bone stock 1961 Cooper. Bummer for me, he sold it before I was old enough to enjoy it, but since then my dad and I have collected all kinds of Mini Cooper toys; static models, Hot Wheels and other assorted die cast replicas. When I mentioned to him that I was going to review Tamiya’s newest Mini, he was very interested in checking it out. Let’s see if this Mini car can provide as much entertainment for me as the 1961 Cooper did for my dad. AT A GLANCE WHO MAKES IT Tamiya WHO IT’S FOR Everyone HOW FAST 20.27mph PART NO. 58443 HOW MUCH: $169.99 WHAT WE LIKED • Full ball bearings • Cool clear shock bodies • Some Tamiya blue aluminum goodies included • Lower CG chassis is much easier to work on • Accessible mounting area for electronics • Adjustable wheelbase to fit all the different Tamiya M-Chassis bodies • The packaging box rocks! WHAT COULD BE IMPROVED Since this was a Pro kit, it would have been cool to have a flashy new set of wheels THE BOTTOM LINE Tamiya has given you three options in one car; old Mini, new Mini or Suzuki Swift. All work great and each has its advantages. The choice is yours. WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW • The M-05 Pro’s new chassis layout is designed for better weight distribution and a lower center of gravity. All the electronics are mounted as low as possible on the chassis and easily accessible. Even the servo (one of the heavier electronic items in the car) is mounted on the bottom plate. • The steering now incorporates a dual bellcrank system. The setup not only makes the steering more precise, it also improves the vehicles ability to track straight. Adjustable steering rods allow you to accurately tune the front toe. • Because this is a Pro kit, it does come with a few cool upgrades. These include a pair of M-03R Aluminum 1.5 degree rear uprights, an aluminum servo saver horn, clear, oil filled dampers, short TRF springs, full ball bearings, aluminum ball studs and locknuts, and a hi-torque servo saver. In addition, Tamiya offers a bunch of additional option parts to really deck out your mini! • The M-05 Pro has three adjustable wheelbase lengths (210mm/225mm/239mm). Each has its advantages on the track, but this also allows you to mount any of Tamiyas Mini-class bodies. I had a choice of the Rover Mini Cooper (short wheelbase), the Suzuki Swift (mid wheelbase) or the newer BMW Mini Cooper S (long wheelbase). I chose the Swift because I really like the look and thought the mid wheelbase design would probably handle the best. • The clear, oil-filled CVA dampers (or shocks) are included and are designed to use Tamiya’s TRF racing springs (also included). These adjustable shocks lower the cars overall ride height and provide smooth, crisp cornering action. • The M-05 Pro will accept stick packs or LiPo packs. You must, however, use LiPos that have ‘rounded’ corners and a pigtail-and-plug soldered into place. NEEDED TO COMPLETE Transmitter, receiver, steering servo, ESC, battery pack, paint for the body, charger, tools WHAT WE USED • Futaba 4PK Transmitter w/R603FS receiver—Item no. FUTK4900, $499.98 • Futaba S3305 Hi-Torque Metal Geared Servo—Item no. S3305, $34.99 • Futaba Intermediate Programmable FET ESC—Item no. FUTM0910, $49.99 • Reedy 3600Mah WolfPack Stick Pack—Item no. 695, $60 TOOLS NEEDED Screwdriver, pliers, hobby knife, scissors, ca glue HARDWARE TYPE Metric hex Tamiya M-05 Pro Chassis Kit DIMENSIONS LENGTH 9 in. (229mm) WIDTH 6.5 in. (165mm) WHEELBASE 8.3 in./8.8 in./9.4 in. (210mm/225mm/239mm) TUNING OPTIONS • Camber—rear adjustable only • Toe—front, adjust turnbuckle length • Front springs—standard short TRF springs • Rear springs—standard short TRF springs • Shock oil—use oil in a variety of viscosities • Bump-steer—add or subtract shims under the steering ball stud RECOMMENDED ACCESSORIES • Aluminum Damper Set—54000 • M-05 Aluminum Motor Plate—54184 • M-Chassis Reinforced Freewheel Axle Set—54183 • M-05 Aluminum Front Upright—54177 • M03 Assembly Universal Shaft Set—53597 COMPETITORS INCLUDE HPI Cup Racer, ABC Hobby Genetic PERFORMANCE SCORECARD Test Venue: Secret Test Location – Codename: Topaz, Garden Grove, California Conditions: Freshly paved parking lot STEERING Understeer Neutral Oversteer One good thing about front wheel drive cars is that they are very hard to spin out! Around the secret test track, I had no problem keeping the throttle pinned through the long, arching sweeper. Even through the tight hairpins, the Tamiya 60D radial tires held on without a fuss. The new dual-bellcrank steering setup really helped navigate the M-05 Pro around the track and provided silky smooth steering. Moving the servo to the back of the car also improved weight transfer during acceleration and braking. BRAKING Poor Fair Good Excellent Another good thing about front wheel drive cars is that you can set the brakes at 100% and call it a day! There were plenty of times I drove deep into a corner and slammed on the brakes. Even my dad was happy that, if he ever got into trouble, he could apply the brakes as hard as he wanted and the Mini would stay straight and composed. The Futaba MC601C ESC kept up with our abuse with fade-free operation. ACCELERATION Poor Fair Good Excellent The last time I drove an M-Chassis car I remember that, when you launched from a standstill, you’d get a ton of wheel hop and torque-steer. This is all but gone with the new M-05 Pro chassis design. My dad and I could mash the throttle from a standing start and be flying around the track in no time. Even with the stock motor, the Reedy Wolfpack provided more than enough power to spin the front meats with ease. In fact, I’m pretty sure my dad enjoyed doing burnouts more than driving around the track! I’ll be looking into a new set of front tires here soon…the 60D’s are very close to being racing slicks. SUSPENSION Poor Fair Good Excellent Tamiya has changed the suspension geometry quite a bit. The clear CVA shocks (with included TRF Racing Springs) are shorter and at a different angle (from previous M-Chassis cars) for better handling. In addition, the adjustable rear camber links help you dial in rear traction on any surface. On the track, the M-05 Pro seemed to float over most of the rougher sections of asphalt without a hint of losing control. Only a stray ‘big’ rock (on the WAY outskirts of the track…don’t ask me what I’m doing out there) would upset the car. Keep the M-05 Pro on the racing line and fast laps were a cinch. DURABILITY Poor Fair Good Excellent Tamiya’s new chassis design did not compromise durability at all. The drivetrain is still sealed up like a vault, the front end is protected by a pretty mean looking bumper, and nothing is exposed on the underside of the car. Even the electronics are well protected, sitting on individual mounting trays. Tamiya has also included some aluminum goodies to not only add some bling, but to strengthen areas that might become vulnerable to carnage-delivering crashes. My dad and I were lucky enough not to have to officially test out the durability (other than the previously mentioned off-track boulders), but I’m pretty confident that this little M-car will handle quite a bit of abuse. THE LAST WORD Tamiya has not only made some drastic improvements on the M-Chassis design, but taken it to the next level with the M-05 Pro. The extra goodies you get with the Pro are all items you might eventually purchase anyway, but Tamiya has included them for not a lot of extra cash. The design is well thought out and shows that this car is not only simple and easy to build, but definitely has serious track potential. The ability to change wheelbase lengths just by switching the position of the parts of the rear suspension will allow the builder to choose from quite a few different body designs, thus customizing the M-05 to their liking. While I did have a ton of fun racing the M-05 around with the Suzuki Swift body, I couldn’t leave the test track without letting my dad drive the M-05 with his body of choice…the old school Mini Cooper. I loaded up the blue Cooper body, slapped on the Panasport-style wheels and let my dad tear it up around the track. I could tell he was having a really good time and, seeing how it probably brought back a lot of memories of his ‘61 Cooper, I knew what I had to do. By the time you read this article, my dad will be the owner of Tamiya’s newest M-Chassis (surrounded by a blue Mini Cooper body)…the M-05 Pro. Links Tamiya, www.tamiyausa.com Reedy, distributed by Team Associated, www.reedy.com Futaba, www.futaba-rc.com [as seen in: RC Driver Magazine] Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted July 29, 2013 Bonsoir, Je roule actuellement avec le tamiya Rz (23T) sur mon M05. Je réfléchis à passer en Brushless. Qu'elle pourrait être l'équivalence ? J'avais pensé à un combo ezrun 9T ? Preneur de tt conseil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted July 30, 2013 oulla non .. 9T c'est beaucoup trop puissant , dejà avec un 13t tu en aura plus qu'il n'en faut Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted July 30, 2013 Même en ezrun? Je ne connais pas trop les équivalence sensor/sensorless Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted July 30, 2013 Oui , en fait faut comparer le nombre de tour/min de ton brusched avec le nombre de kv du brushless , le RZ est donné pour 27500tr/min à 7.2v , donc ca correspond a 3800kv. le 9T ezrun est donné pour 4300kv et le 13t pour 3000kv , donc on est exactement entre les deux, difficile a dire ... cependant le brushless est plus coupleux que le brusched , donc c'est aussi a prendre en compte pour ta mécanique. Ensuite on peut jouer avec le timing sur les ezrun pour gagner en vitesse de pointe, donc même avec le 13t tu auras quelque chose de très correcte (sauf si tu veux un missile sol sol qui fait qu'un aller retour avant de flinguer la transmission ^^). Perso j'avais essayé un 9T sur mon M05 avant de le vendre et je passait pas la moitié de la puissance au sol. et je suis même revenu au silvercan standard sur mon M06 ... sans maitrisse la puissance toussa Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted July 30, 2013 D'acc merci des info. On a essayer différents moteur. Le silver CAN était trop juste pour notre piste. Le 23 Rz avec lipo est par contre un bon compromis entre vitesse / réalisme. Quid au niveau pilotage avec un sensorless ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted July 30, 2013 y a pas vraiment de difference , un peu plus de couple , donc un peu plus d'usure des pneus aussi. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted January 18, 2015 Avec un moteur quel est le meilleur compromis pour de la perf et pas flinguer la transmission? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites