Posted December 18, 2008 Ce sont des nouvelles pièces? Tu as une idée des dates de sortie? En tout cas merci d'entretenir le post et de faire profiter tous le monde des dernières news.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted December 18, 2008 Ce sont des nouvelles pièces? Tu as une idée des dates de sortie? En tout cas merci d'entretenir le post et de faire profiter tous le monde des dernières news.. Il s'agit de la liste des nouvelles pièces publiée par Yokomo hier. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted December 21, 2008 Des petites choses en plus venant de chez nos amis anglais I've managed to work a few things out about the Yokomo springs. First of all, the spring chart from Petit RC is a great resource and gets a big from me - http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggySpringChart.pdf Secondly, Yokomo's coloured BX springs are very close in rate - they have only 0.25 coil difference between them. This may be a good step for a short touring spring but on a buggy it is far too small to make any difference. A 1/4 coil is worth 2-3% on the rate at these lengths, the AE and Losi springs are at closer to 10% difference between each rate. So as suggested above you need to go right down to a blue or pink to notice any real difference. Thirdly, the front black springs are quite a lot stiffer than the nearest rate, at 0.75 coils stiffer than the next coloured spring. And are still at best a "medium" spring, similar to an AE silver. Does your, or anyone else's experience, bear out the petit chart? Just wondering cos if so it could well be worth dropping below the yokomo softest spring on the rear, or harder than the hardest on the front? Say up to AE blue up front, down to AE silver/kyosho yellow at the back? I tried some AE springs last time out and it pretty much agreed with the Petit chart. Going up to AE blues definitely took the edge off the steering, this was running AE silvers on the back too. On the chart the AE silver is softer than any Yok rear, does that fit in with what you found too? To be honest I just threw the silvers on to have consistency of brand on the car. Didn't notice anything specific about them, except that the balance of the car was a lot smoother with less grabby steering with the AE setup. I later returned to kit springs but with the fronts on the outer wishbone hole, had a similar balance but also felt a shade faster overall, not sure how much of that was the decreased front droop and different shock angle though. More testing required. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted January 13, 2009 bonsoir a tous, voila j'ai mes deux yokomo b-max4, un pour rouler avec le Champion Pack et l'autre pour pieces. j'ai presque fini de monter la premiere voiture. qui aurait un setup pour rouler sur de l'herbe sytetique. merci d'avance pour la reponse. mon mail: micrors4(at)tele2allin.be Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted January 23, 2009 Image: Arnaud Ledun, pilote officiel SMS Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted January 25, 2009 Image: Arnaud Ledun, pilote officiel SMS Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted January 29, 2009 Kit de visserie titane, Ref: BM-ASST Une installation électronique propre Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted January 30, 2009 BM-CP - Champion Pack Aluminum Front Shock ×2 Aluminum Rear Shock ×2 Front Titanium Coat Shock Shaft ×2 Rear Titanium Coat Shock Shaft ×2 39mm Titanium Turn Buckle ×7 Turn Buckle Wrench ×1 King Pin Collar ×4 3×12mm Button Head Screw ×4 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4mm Rear Sway Bar Set ×1 Front Wheel Hub ×2 BM-011F - Alminum Front Wheel Hub (comapatible Associated et Losi) Front Wheel Hub ×2 Wheel Hub Pin ×2 BM-1L - Aluminum Rear Shock Set Shock Cap ×2 2×5mm BH Tapping Screw ×2 Diam 10mm O Ring ×2 Shock Body ×2 Adjust Nut ×2 diam 12mm O Ring ×2 Titanium Coating Shock Shaft ×2 Piston ×2 2mm E Ring ×4 E Clip ×2 Black Shim ×2 White thick Shim ×2 White thin Shim ×2 Diam 9mm O Ring ×2 Shield Cap ×2 BM-1S - Aluminum Front Shock Set Shock Cap ×2 2×5mm BH Tapping Screw ×2 Diam 10mm O Ring ×2 Shock Body ×2 Adjust Nut ×2 diam 12mm O Ring ×2 Titanium Coating Shock Shaft ×2 Piston ×2 2mm E Ring ×4 E Clip ×2 Black Shim ×2 White thick Shim ×2 White thin Shim ×2 Diam 9mm O Ring ×2 Shield Cap ×2 BM-200L - Alminum Servo Saver Mount BM-202R - Aluminum Center Link BM-300FB - Special Front Brace BM-300FR - Aluminum Front Suspention Mount ® Aluminum Suspention Mount ×2 3×8mm BH Screw ×4 BM-300RF - Aluminum Rear Suspention Mount (F) Aluminum Rear Suspention Mount (F) ×1 Suspention Arm Pin Ball ×2 BM-300RR3 - Aluminum Rear Suspention Mount (R3) Aluminum Rear Suspention Mount (R3) ×1 Suspention Arm Pin Ball ×2 BM-304SS - Special Motor Mount Set Motor Mount Base ×1 Motor Cam ×1 Motor Holder ×1 BM-412 - Stabilizer Set (1.0/1.1/1.2/1.3/1.4mm) Stabiliser Wire ×1 Aluminum Rod End Ball ×2 Rod End Plastic Parts A ×2 Rod End Plastic Parts B ×2 3×10mm Set Screw ×2 3×4mm Set Screw ×2 3×3mm Set Screw ×2 BM-415R0 - Aluminum Rear Hub Carrier BM-501S - Special Diff Joint(Light Weight) Diff Joint R ×1 Diff Joint L ×1 BM-ASST - Titanium 3mm Screw Set Button Head Tapping Screw 3×8mm ×4 3×10mm ×10 3×12mm ×20 3×15mm ×8 3×25mm ×2 Flat Head Tapping Screw 3×8mm ×16 3×10mm ×10 3×12mm ×2 Button Head Screw 3×6mm ×2 3×8mm ×2 3×12mm ×1 3×15mm ×2 3×20mm ×1 Flat Head Screw 3×8mm ×3 BM-SG81 - 81T Spur Gear (48pitch) ZC-S120S - Stainless Spacer Shim 12.0mm 0.1mm Stainress Spacer ×10 0.2mm Stainress Spacer ×10 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted February 6, 2009 Bonjour Petite question sur les pistons d'amortisseur: d'origine on a des pistons noirs 2 et 3 trous, avec le kit champion pack il est livré des pistons noirs et blancs comment peut on les classer par rapport aux noirs d'origines ? merci Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted February 6, 2009 Je serais aussi preneur de l'information! Si une ame charitable avec des outils de mesure (pied à coulisse) pouvait donner les mesures suivantes, cela me serait fort utile: - Diametre du pistion - Diametre des trous pour chaque piston - Diametre de la tige Merci de la collaboration Pour les comparaisons des pistons, j'ai déjà quelque chose que je tente d'améliorer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted February 7, 2009 Bonjour, Je viens d'acquérir un Yok bmax et vient de finir le montage. Tout est OK à une chose pret mais pas la moindre ! J'ai beau serrer les roues avec fermeté, j'ai du jeu sur presques chacune d'elle... Visiblement la petite tige transversale qui se loge dans la roue quand on la met en place empeche la roue d'atteindre la petite "coupelle" plate et donc de bien bloquer la roue... A part serrer comme une grosse brute je ne sais que faire... Ca ne m'a pas empecher de rouler un peu et je ne m'en rend pas compte mais sur le long terme je ne pense pas que ce soit très bon. Si des possesseurs de bmax ont des solutions pour moi je suis preneur ! Merci Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted February 7, 2009 Je vois pas trop ce que tu veux dire, mais la coupelle bleue en question, si c'est celle que je pense l'as tu mise dans le bon sens, coté plat vers l'exterieur ? es tu sûr que la petite tige rentre bien dans son logement dans la roue ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted February 7, 2009 Oui le coté plat est bien vers l'exterieur. Ce que je trouve bizarre c'est que la petite tige ne soit pas collé à la coupelle bleue. Il y a un peu d'espace entre les deux et le jeu provient de là je pense. Ils aurait du donner plus que 2 rondelles par roue dans le kit (la notice indique une de chaque coté) pour pouvoir en mettre 2 par exemple coté roue et éviter ce jeu... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted February 7, 2009 J"en ai 2 par roues et il n'y a pas de jeu. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted February 7, 2009 Quand tu dis 2 par roues, tu veux dire une de chaque coté des roulements ? (comme dans la notice). Car j'envisage d'en rajouter une 2eme coté roue pour réduire ce jeu. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted February 7, 2009 Tu l'as rajouté en plus ou tu as pris celle de l'autre coté ? Tu as donc bien fait cela car toi aussi tu avais du jeu ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted February 11, 2009 <img src="http://www.petitrc.com/gallery/files/3-bmax4frontshocktower.jpg" width="500" height="375" Ryan Lees, racer at the PETIT RC RACE 2009 have spent the last few evenings designing some Carbon Fibre Shock Towers for the Yokomo Bmax, not only will they be much tougher than the standard plastic ones. They will look the part too! They are currently being made from 3mm Carbon Fibre and are going to be £15 for the Rear Tower and £12.50 for the front. They are a direct fit to the car with no modifications will be required. The Ballstud positions are as identical to the originals as possible with extra mounting holes added for optimum adjustment. I have received the one-off shock tower set today, and they are a perfect fit. I will be putting the order in tomorrow! However, after looking at the car tonight i have decided to get them produced in 4mm. I will wait for the company to reply with the price of the shock towers until i can say how much they will be, those who have already placed orders the price will be fixed. I think these towers have made the car look a lot better having that carbon touch! for a 4mm set of shock towers. The costs are: Yokomo Bmax Front Shock Tower 4mm - £9.50 Yokomo Bmax Rear Shock Tower 4mm - £12.50 Shipping to the UK is 50p per tower Shipping worldwide is £1 per Tower I accept paypal, please send me an email to ryan.lees@live.co.uk if you are interested, and they will be with you in 5-7 Days. Source: Ryan Lees on Oople Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted February 12, 2009 Teesside regional Moving swiftly back to the topic of the Yokomo B-MAX4, I finally destroyed the rear bevel gears at the Teesside regional meeting at the end of last year. I really should have bought some new ones but foolishly thought I could make the damaged ones last. In the end it compromised my last few qualifiers and my final, although not as much as the marshal who, ready to leap into action like a tiger, decided to lean over the top of a jump and obstruct my view throughout. As an aside, buying the replacements turned into an epic. In brief, don’t expect CML Shopatron to supply the parts they say are available. All in all though I enjoyed the Teesside meeting, despite the track being a bit narrow in places, mainly because it didn’t have any of the “big air” obstacles that seem to have become fashionable, and it added up to one of the better “racing” tracks I’ve experienced for buggies in recent years. http://www.sosidge.com/2009/02/08/more-news-on-the-b-max4/ Setup tips I also learned a little about setting the B-MAX4 up. Fundamentally, the car does not have enough roll stiffness for UK conditions so becomes edgy at the limit unless you fit the rear anti-roll bar (standard in the champions pack, I’ve tried a few and keep coming back to 1.1mm), and stiffen the front end (I prefer to use Associated blue springs, combined with Associated silvers on the rear, although you can get a similar balance by running the kit front springs mounted in the outside wishbone hole - although this limits droop and makes the car worse on the bumps). Other cars on the market can acheive extra roll stiffness by running an angled link to raise the roll centre, but on the B-MAX4 you can’t as there are only two camber link positions, neither of which gives a very angled link. Using this basic setup at today’s Jarrow regional gave a well balanced car, although the tyres were excessively worn as I couldn’t be bothered to buy any new ones! As a result I was down in the D final rather than the C that I usually manage. To get a better fit with the AE springs, get hold of the Tamiya spring bottoms from the 501X (#51282, use part X4), these let the springs sit a little lower for more ride height adjustment. Gear mesh yet again Once again I had problems with the gear mesh at Jarrow. This time I had gone too tight, resulting in a plume of smoke and a burnt out motor! So, having now gone too loose and too tight, I think I am in a good position to advise how to get it just right (rather like Goldilocks!) 1. Get some extra, fine shims. 0.1mm or less. Yokomo do some but these may be hard to find in the UK, I used the ones from TOP Racing, supplied by Much-More UK. You need 12mm ID for the diff, and 8mm ID for the input gear. You can also use some 5mm ID ones on the opposite side of the input gear to take out the slack if you like. 2. Shim the input gear so it has the broadest mesh possible with the diff gear without rubbing it on the edge. The kit setting should be a good starting point, or maybe 0.1mm less. 3. Unfortunately, the mouldings of the top and bottom gearbox halves are not identical (at least not in my kit). So, put the input shaft and diff gear in the gearbox half with the tighter tolerance. If you set the mesh in the half with the slacker tolerance, the gearbox will tighten up considerably when assembled and cause you problems (such as the aforementioned motor cooking!). 4. Shim the diff so that the mesh is as tight as it will go while still rotating smoothly. There should be no backlash, small high points in the mesh should bed in after one run. Make sure all the side-so-side movement of the diff in the gearbox half is taken out with more fine shims, but make sure the diff still rotates smoothly. 5. Assemble carefully and check that the transmission rolls over smoothly. If any axle or gear seems to bind, disassemble and re-shim. Don’t expect the transmission on this car to spin, the tolerances are too tight for that, probably in the interests of durability. Unfortunately these tight tolerances put more load on the motor, it does get rather warm under the shell. And one last tip The only other issue I have had with the B-MAX4, and it is hardly a major one, is bending the front shock mounting screws, probably when the exposed threads catch the track surface during rolls and crashes. After a big impact these are close to shearing off. A very simple solution which seems to have worked is to put a 2mm spacer on the screw before fitting the lock nut, this means that the round edge of the nut hits the ground first instead of the sharp edge of the screw. Despite landing on the roof and rolling a few times today, the shock mounting screws remain resolutely unbent. That’s all for now. Hope these tips help you out, let me know if they do. ----------------------------- Traduction automatique en français Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted February 12, 2009 Quelques photos de mon Yok fraichement monté : Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted February 14, 2009 Mon BMAX et la carro proto: pontons rallongés pour ventiller moteur et variateur et cokpit modifié Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted February 14, 2009 est ce que tu aurais des images de détail de ton installation et de la carrosserie? est ce que tu as du nouveau pour les pistons? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted February 14, 2009 Je vais essayer de faire ça dans le weekend et rien de nouveau pour les pistons Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
