Carrosseries 1/12ème

L'an dernier j'ai essayé la 8HD, la courage, la Reynard et la Zytec

La 8HD, terrible... Scotché dans toutes les circonstances mais à mon gout manque un poil d'avant

La courage... Bof, hyper fragile et un appui "bizarre" pas très net.

La Reynard, trop d'arrière et avec des pontons très bas qui oblige à être hyper fin avec le placement de l'electronique

La Zytec, nickel !!! La 8HD mais avec du train avant et un poil moins de roulis.

A savoir que de coté la Zytec ressemble étrangement à une 8HD sans bulle...

J'ai plusieurs R10 à me faire... Pas eu le temps de les peindre

Carro HB peinte par un artiste Thailandais...

I always find it better to paint the shell first before cutting it out. I have learnt you can paint the body, put it down to dry, and if the shell is not flat, it can twist slightly. So ,make sure the shell is flat and leave the arches in as it gives the shell much more rigidity. I know some people find it easier to cut out shells before painting but I think this way of doing it gets around most of the problems. I know some people put a whole shell over one another but this means the shell underneath is in a slightly different place than the one above. Doing it with a template I find works really well assuming your template is well cut out.

So once you have trimmed the body around the bottom it’s time to mount the holes. Place your body template over the shell, make sure its nice and flat, then mark the holes with a pen. It’s always worth double checking that the mounting holes are in an equal place either side, you can easily check this with a ruler. Once you have drilled the holes check that the body fits nicely. When it comes to cutting the arches, I always have the car ready to go with all radio gear in. I also set all the geometry so all the wheels are in the position they will be when the car is ready to run.

Use a non-permanenet pen to mark where the holes and wheel arches should be.

There are many different ways of doing arches. I find getting a tyre and wheel and drawing around it works well. Line the axle hole in the wheel up with the axle of the car and then draw around it with a fine pen. You can check it lines up ok and if not, just wipe off and do it again. I then use a pair of sharp curved scissors to cut out the arch. This is something that taking your time at really pays dividends. I know it’s easy to rush cutting out a body but it does reward patience.

Now you should have a shell mounted and cut out. When it comes to doing the bottom of the shell I find it’s easier sometimes to put some tape around the bottom and cut to the edge. Always check before running any shell that all the arches clear the wheels when on lock! When running a 1:12 car on foam tyres its best to round the edges of the arch off a little more than you normally would. You don't want a razor sharp wheel arch cutting into your tyres.

Take your time when mounting your shell. Patience is a virtue!

So once you have put all you decals and number on the car its time to go race. Sometimes you can spend all evening getting a shell ready then in just a couple of corners you can destroy it, but I suppose that's racing!

Keep an old shell so you can tell where the body holes are supposed to go.

Boulot propre et net... j'adore... A copier sans modération !!

Quelqu'un a testé la bomb-R ? Des retours ?

Amr en plus accrochée, j'en ai vendu déjà une bonne vingtaine

Très bonne carro !

perso je roule soit en Parma EE-1 ou BlackArt Bomb-R

2010/2011

Black Art

#BA001 – Audi R10

#BA002 – Audi R8

#BA003 – Pacemaker (R10)

#BA004 - AM

Corally

#78120 – Mercedes

Parma

#10210 – Zytec

#10125 Speed 8.

#10206 Speed 8 HD

#10207 – EE1

Protoform

#1609 Speed 12 GTP

#1611 AMR12

Les carrosseries de la liste ci-dessus sont autorisées en version « Light » et « Lourde »

ba001 n'existe plus remplacée par ba003

EFRA 1/12 Electric Track Body List

The listed bodyshells have been approved for use in EFRA 1/12th Events. The list will be updated for any new bodyshells supplied for approval that meet the criteria stated in EFRA Handbook (currently Appendix 3 Section 6.1)

Black Art

#BA004 – AM (Bomb R)

Corally

#CR78135 – Speed 10E

Parma

#10207 – EE1

Protoform

#1611 – AMR12

All ‘Lightweight’ and ‘Heavyweight’ versions of the above are included.

tsukay racing M792P

team azarashi

Juste pour la peinture

L'image vient d'une pa terminée

FFx Design, du très beau boulot. C'est lui qui me fait mes carro et celles de mon team aussi bien en 1/5 que sur ma DTM.

CRC/Black Art BA005 1:12th racing body

The new BA005 is designed for high speed 1:12th modified with high downforce for increased stability. The body will fit all the popular 1:12th cars and is molded in lightweight .020” lexan.

liste pour la saison 2011-2011

Black Art BA005 - The 'Black Market' Body - unofficially called the Mohawk 12 because of the Mohawk like rib down the center. This body is great for higher speed 1:12th racing. Stable with precise steering. An excellent choice when a more smooth cornering body is needed. More downforce than the R8C but a little less steering. Pulled in .020" genuine Lexan. Lightweight and strong.

http://www.petitrc.com/_forumphp/showthread.php?t=61940

Dispo

EFRA 1/12 Electric Track Body List 2012

The listed bodyshells have been approved for use in EFRA 1/12th Events. The list will be updated for any new bodyshells supplied for approval that meet the criteria stated in EFRA Handbook (currently Appendix 3 Section 6.1)

Black Art

#BA004 – AM (Bomb R)

#BA005 – P-908

Corally

#CR78135 – Speed 10E

Parma

#10207 – EE1

Protoform

#1611 – AMR12

Pulse RC

#PU-0003 – LMP-One

All ‘Lightweight’ and ‘Heavyweight’ versions of the above are included.

Russ Giles

PROTOform’s track record in the ever- popular 1:12 scale on-road class speaks for itself: 6 IFMAR World titles (including the last two), numerous National, IIC and Snowbirds titles.

The all-new PROTOform TR-12 hopes to carry on that legacy. Input from our team of drivers was used to improve the shape, while taking styling cues from a highly-successful factory-works hybrid LMP that made its debut at the 2012 24 Hours of Le Mans, then went on to win 3 WEC series races.

The TR-12 includes a large center ‘dorsal fin’ to improve high-speed stability for those ultra-fast modified cars. Unique spill-plate profiles and side air channels give the body an unmistakable look on the track while adding functionality. It fits all EFRA/IFMAR, BRCA, ROAR and JMRCA body rule requirements, and includes headlamp decals - as per ROAR rules. The TR-12 is produced using LW .020” lexan with protective film and includes window masks and decal sheet.

Just in time for the 2013 Snowbirds, we think the PROTOform TR-12 will be a "must have!”

BLITZ T128 1/12th On-Road Racing Body

PROTOform is taking aim at 1:12 Stock and SuperStock classes with our new 1:12 race body, the Strakka-12.

Modelled after an all-new racecar contending in the WEC series, the Strakka-12 is a reduced -downforce alternative to the ultra-successful AMR-12. This race body will help your 1:12 Stock or SuperStock car slip around the track efficiently without scrubbing too much all-important corner speed. Modified racers looking for a less downforce on super high grip tracks can also use the Strakka-12, attaching the add-on Gurney Flap marked out in the back of the body.

The Strakka-12 fits all EFRA,IFMAR, BRCA, ROARand JMRCA body specs. For the first time, PROTOform is offering this 1:12 body in both light weight .020” lexan for experts and regular weight .030” for novices. Like all PROTOform bodies, it comes with protective film and includes window masks and a decal sheet.

http://racepf.com/on-road-1-10-1-12/strakka-12-light-weight-clear-body/

Elle est magnifique cette carro, je me la prendrais bien en deuxième modèle.