Posted August 17, 2010 Je vais faire des mesures précises... Mais a mon avis c'est mieux de recentrer les masses que d'équilibrer parfaitement la voiture... D'ailleurs on le voit sur la voiture d'Andy... Mon accu est au meme endroit que le sien... Hmm personnellement, je pense que recentrer les masses ET équilibrer parfaitement l'auto en conséquence, ça va de paire. Autrement, ça n'a pas beaucoup intérêt, à mon humble avis... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted August 17, 2010 #68740 HB RACING SPUR V2 GEAR 110 TOOTH (64PITCH) #68733 CENTER ONE WAY PULLEY 20T (TCX) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted August 17, 2010 Hmm personnellement, je pense que recentrer les masses ET équilibrer parfaitement l'auto en conséquence, ça va de paire. Autrement, ça n'a pas beaucoup intérêt, à mon humble avis... Mais comment faire les deux en meme temps? Vu comme le moteur est excentré... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted August 19, 2010 #68751 HD LOWER BULK HEAD TCX (1pc) #68752 HD MOTOR MOUNT SET (TCX) Add strength and extreme durability with this 7075 heavy duty aluminium lower bulkhead & motor mount for the HB TCX touring car. Lightweight, high strength and amazing durability all in one. One piece per package, two pieces are required for each end of the car. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted August 20, 2010 Pour les futurs (pas dispo en france) et peut être rares (si on se réfère au cf de cette année avec le modèle actuel) possesseurs de ce modèle, Andrew aux euros avait un diff Spec-r (ça on savait) en modèle Tamiya (pas le xray) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted August 20, 2010 J'avoue ne toujours pas etre convaincu de l'utilité de ce truc pour les catégories 10.5... Mais bon Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted August 20, 2010 devant et derriere ou avec tout moteur? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted September 8, 2010 (edited) Châssis Option (plus étroit) en cours de développement , celui utilisé par Moore au CE Ainsi qu'un (probable) diff à pignons HB Edited September 8, 2010 by zozo-03 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted September 12, 2010 Tiens pas de diff à pignon... Bon sinon elles sont pures de boite a voir... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted September 25, 2010 Pas très passionante l'interview... Vous ne trouvez pas? Par contre je ne comprends pas bien pourquoi il ne va pas à l'IIC de l'année prochaine... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted October 5, 2010 pas de reaction, pas de commentaire et pourtant entre les images de courses et les suivantes, il y a des choses qui changent Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted October 5, 2010 assemblage en images The Box and Bags: And Now the Build. I recommend using a high quality allen driver rather then L shaped allen wrench. Bag A: Bag B: Setting up for DRIFT? TCX Chassis comes with Solid front axle and Ball Diff rear. Swap the front with the back and you are set for drift out of the box! Bag C: Bag D: Bag E: Bag F: Front Rear Bag G: Front Rear Bag H (Complete Chassis): The Body (HPI Subaru #7399): Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted October 5, 2010 Sur la photo, l'auto est montée avec des fusées de 416 et la cale de suspension FR est retouchée. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted October 11, 2010 Picture of the 3 Racing diff. gear mounted on TCX. You should add about 2.5 mm in thickness (it is better to leave some space), to use the HB drive shafts should broaden into the out drive of 0.2 mm Of course you have to mount a pulley Sakura on the front spool because the diff. gear has 38 teeth (maybe 3Racing it will produce a gear diff. with pully 39 teeth) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted October 12, 2010 Moi qui m'appretais a recopier ces infos qu'on m'a données sur rctech, ben comme ca c'est fait! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted October 17, 2010 Mais lol, maintenant on met le plomb coté moteur! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted October 26, 2010 1.0mm shims vs 1.5mm shims up front: 1.0mm lowers the roll center. When you have a lower roll center, it tends to create less intial grip (so a little smoother into the corner), and more mid-exit grip (more mid-exit steering). I tend to do this on lower traction surfaces since it can make the car easier to traction roll in higher grip conditions. It allows the front end to roll easier, but it rolls slower. Most of the time, I stay with 1.5mm under the suspension blocks. Std suspension blocks vs 1.0 FF/FR or others: The 1.0, 1.5, ect are all wider than the std FR suspensiopn block. Lately in hgiher grip conditions I have been running 1.5 or 2.0 deg blocks FF and FR. It makes the camber link longer, and also changes how the suspension reacts a bit. Generally wider hinge pin mounting makes the car feel a little stiffer and more responsive around center. It generally rolls less and produces a little less traction in comparison to the box stock setup. The box stock 2.5 deg/0 deg setup gives a lot of arm sweep, which feels good on lower bite tracks but I think it feels too soft and not very "linear" through the corner. For me, it feels kind of lazy going in, then dig in super hard in the middle. Korey Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
