Posted March 25, 2011 ayez il est dans les stocks 315 euros. Je vais bientôt commander le mien. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted March 30, 2011 The DESC410R comes equipped with a slipper clutch to protect the drivetrain from high loads and shocks from landing jumps. With proper build technique the gearboxes should be tough but setting the slipper is a vital part in the process of preparing your vehicle for the punishment of the race track. More details... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted April 4, 2011 vivement les premiers roulages... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted April 6, 2011 The DESC410R kit comes supplied with some ‘1 degree’ optional rear hubs in the kit, to tune the handling of the truck to suit track conditions and driving style. The hubs affect TOE-IN values and depending on how you use them, you can gain rear stability or loosen up the rear for more rotation in the corners and greater straight-line speed. Toe-in on the DESC410R is -3 degrees by default – which is set by the angle of the suspension arms on the inner hinge pin. -3 degrees is a well established default used on on rear of many manufacturers cars as it’s a good compromise between stability and speed. The optional +1 degree hubs can be confusing as they are marked to ADD degrees the opposite way – in other words, ‘reduce’ toe-in values. Toe-in is ‘negative’ toe. Using the ‘R +1′ hub on the right hand side of the car will increase the positive toe at the right hand side of the car by one degree, to two degrees negative toe in total. (-3+1=-2). Using the R+1 on the left hand side of the car will decrease the toe on the left hand side of the car by one degree to four degrees toe in. (-3-1=-4) The most common use for optional hubs like these is to create more negative toe-in to aid rear-end stability on loose tracks, so this guide is to help inform racers on which way round the hubs should be used to get the desired setting. More Toe In – R +1 on the Left, L +1 on the Right = -4 Degrees Total Toe-In:: Lower top speed Greater stability at rear Less Steering Less Toe In – R +1 on the Right, L +1 on the Left= -2 Degrees Total Toe-In: Higer top speed Less stability at rear More Steering Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted April 6, 2011 The DESC410R Short Course truck comes with a locked centre drive unit which can easily be turned into a centre differential. Purchasing the optional TD210031 ‘Conversion set for centre slipper-diff’ gives you all the parts that you need to replace the ‘locker’ with the diff parts. The standard ‘locked’ setup will put all the available power down to all wheels under acceleration (depending on slipper settings) and is the most aggressive setup, best suited to smoother tracks with high traction. The centre differential works by limiting the power transmitted to the end with the most load to prevent it breaking traction. Running high powered motors – especially the 550 motors popular in the 4WD SC class, not only puts strain on the transmission but can make the truck hard to drive over rough surfaces or in low traction conditions. The centre diff will help smooth out the power delivery, absorb bumps and jumps to keep the truck headed on desired course. Building the centre diff on the DESC410R uses the same differential parts as used in the other differentials on the truck – which have been bundled together in the slipper-diff conversion set specifically for the DESC410R. Building the slipper-diff is similar to the other differentials on the truck. The truck already comes supplied with the X-ring seals which require some lubrication – so if you didn’t already do this when building the car you’ll need to disassemble all the parts and make sure to lube these X-rings and the shaft / drive cup that will ride in them. Put some diff oil where the Xring will sit It’s a good idea to test-fit the larger 14 tooth gears on the hexagonal shafts before reassembly as they can be quite tight. Tight or not – you can still fit them by tapping them into place but it will make disassembly more time consuming which is something you’ll need to think about if you’re wanting to regularly swap between running a diff or locked centre. You can use some fine abrasive paper to take some of the black coating off the hexagons which should be just enough to allow the gears to drop into place. You can lightly sand the Hex’s to make assembly/rebuild quicker Tapping the gears down gently with the box spanner It’s a good idea to put some diff oil around the output shafts under the gear before pressing it onto the shaft as it can be hard for the oil to work its way back there on its own. Likewise – if you’re going to run some very thick oil it’s a good idea to partially fill the diff casing with oil before dropping the spider gears into the housing. Put some diff oil behind the gears Some diff oil before dropping the spider gears in Top-up the oil to just below the top of the spider gears and tighten the diff together using a cross-pattern to ensure the diff casing goes together straight. The centre differential will help protect the drivetrain from shocks but you still need to use the slipper in combination with the differential. Testing the slipper in the truck will be hard since the newly installed centre differential components will mask the effect of the slipper – so setting the slipper as suggested in the slipper build guide (http://www.team-durango.com/blog/?cat=3) and testing in the hand is a good method. Tightening up the screw that secures the slipper-side drive cup can be tricky since you need to clamp both the opposite drive cup and the diff body itself to stop them spinning. You can use one of the included slipper wrenches in the opposing drivecup to give more leverage and clamp both parts with one hand as you tighten the screw down. Centre diff filled Tightening down the drive cup Centre Diff Oil Effects: The centre differential gets a real work out and depending on track conditions, you’ll want to run different oils to get the optimum setting. Generally you’ll use a thicker oil in the centre than you’d use elsewhere and a baseline of around 20K CST is a good starting point. Too light an oil will be obvious as the truck will lean back on hard acceleration and allow the front wheels to spin with the tyres ballooning excessively, meaning the truck is slow to take-off. Running a very heavy oil such as 50K CST will have very little ‘diff’ action and allow for hard acceleration. Thinner oils are more suited to bumpy and low-traction conditions. Off power there will be more steering whilst on-power there will be less steering. The tendancy for the rear end to wash out under power will also be reduced – so you can be a little less gentle with the throttle, making the car easier to drive. Thicker oils will feel progressively closer to the locked centre setup. With more drive to the rear wheels there will be more chance for the rear to break traction. Over uneven terrain or slippery surfaces the truck will be more reactive and potentially harder to control – especially if very fast motors are used. On-power steering will be improved. Because braking is applied to the spur gear, rather than having a mechanical setup as in a 1/8th buggy, oil thickness will also have an effect of braking. A thin oil will prevent the truck from nosing-down too much under braking but could reduce the effectiveness of the brakes too much on high traction surfaces where you’re trying to late-brake into corners. Like everything, you need to find a balance that suits your driving style and the track you’re running on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted April 7, 2011 Peut-on SVP m'expliquer l'intèret d'un diff. central couplé à un slipper sur une RC élec. Merci. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted May 9, 2011 Team Durango is a relatively new company based in the UK that made the legendary Durango 1/10 scale 4WD buggy available to everyone. The "Durango" as it is widely known was invented by Gerd Strenge from Germany and formerly only available as handmade prototype for a mahoosive amount of cash. Then, back in 2009, the first Team Durango DEX410 was released, after Gerd teamed up with some industry heavyweights, to produce Durangos for the mass market. ==================================================== Team Durango's DESC410R 1/10 scale 4WD Short Course Truck bases on the 2009 World Championship winning DEX410 1/10 scale 4WD buggy and is Team Durango's 3rd kit after the DEX410/410R and DNX408 1/8 scale Nitro Buggy. This is the first part of our new series called the "Build Blog". We keep you up-to-date during the build and track test to shorten time until our full-blown review. Enjoy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted May 16, 2011 review http://vimeo.com/23759741 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted May 18, 2011 Desc410R Setup Sheet (Yatabe Arena) DESC410R で遊ぶ その２ / The play DESC410R 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted January 7, 2012 http://www.team-durango.com/blog/2011/12/14/desc410r-td320132-rear-bumper-install/ http://www.team-durango.com/blog/2012/01/06/desc410r-outer-hinge-pin-location/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted June 22, 2012 Team Durango updates their popular DESC410 4WD short course truck with a Pro Spec kit loaded with a ton of goodies. Check out all the details below: The DESC410v2 kit is a high spec race kit based on the successful DESC410R, a kit that has won many races all over the world since its release. The DESC410v2 spec kit has already won in the hands of Ryan Lutz, winning the 4wd SC class at the AMS 3.0 race in the USA. The specification of this kit is similar to that of the DEX410v3 buggy. This kit features: Race proven layout and geometry Center Differential Machine Cut 42T Ring Gears Machined Aluminium Suspension Hangers front and rear Aluminium Shock Seal Housing Caps Moulded Composite Shock Towers No Body included – lets the racer chose their body. This also allows the kit to be packed in a DEX410 size box meaning less cost for shipping. Updated suspension arms – beefed up for increased durability in the toughest track conditions Both large and small rear bumpers included in the kit Roll bars included in the kit White racing wheels TD102020 Due – Mid July Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted October 6, 2012 DES410 CARBON SIDE PLATES Serial Number: 1255 USA made 2mm thick quasi weave carbon fiber side plates for the Durango DESC410. Lighter then stock and has extra clearance near the servo mount for much easier servo mount installation compared to the stock alloy plates and has that great factory racer look! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted October 6, 2012 Sympa ces pièces carbone! 2 questions svp: Quelle est la marque qui fabrique ces pièces et ou sont-elles dispo? sur l'une des photos, on voit des supports d'amortisseurs en carbone aussi, sont-ils également dispo? Merci d'avance pour les réponses. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted October 6, 2012 c'est exotek qui fait cela pour les supports d'amortisseurs en carbone aussi, surement mais j'ai pas fais attention Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted October 19, 2012 DESC410R Front & Rear A-arms DESC410R Front A-armsRPM engineers reviewed common breakage areas of stock DESC410R A-arms and redesigned our version to eliminate those issues. Hinge pin areas have been massively beefed up to support the relatively small 3mm hinge pins. In certain hinge pin areas, RPM A-arms are over 50% larger than stock A-arms! We’ve also eliminated as much as .004” (.1mm) of slop from some of the hinge pin areas. Stronger, thicker support beams using trapezoidal shapes provide the muscle while our proven blend of top secret materials provides the durability these incredibly fast trucks need. DESC410R Rear A-armsRPM front A-arms swap the stock front suspension arm bushings from the outside of the A-arm to the inside. The reason is simple – the screws holding the front C-hub on stock A-arms press the bushings into the C-Hub, causing a bind over time. When flipped in the RPM version, the flanged side of the bushing rests between the C-Hub and A-arm (placing metal between two pieces of plastic) accomplishing two goals; It smoothes out suspension movement and prevents the bushing from gouging into the C-Hub. RPM DESC410R A-arms actually weigh less than stock “v1” A-arms by 1.5 grams each, for a total weight loss of 6 grams or almost a quarter ounce (when using both front and rear A-arms). That number becomes even larger when compared to DESC410R “v2” A-arms. Whether racing, bashing, or anything in-between, RPM A-arms are your DESC410R solution! 73772 Rear A-arms for the Durango DESC410R Available 11.08.12 73892 Front A-arms for the Durango DESC410R Available 11.08.12 Installation Instructions http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/faq/PDF/73892%20DESC410R%20A-arms.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted November 9, 2012 http://www.team-durango.com/race-cars/desc410rv2/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted November 13, 2012 Team Durango are pleased to announce the release of the TD330407 Moulded Shock Tower Set for the DESC410 range of vehicles. This moulded shock tower set contains both front and rear shock towers for your DESC410 vehicle moulded in a high quality engineering composite material. These moulded shock towers are light, offering a 35% weight saving over the aluminium shock towers on the DESC410R model. They are optimised for the DESC410 model, and offer different mounting positions for the shocks and inner camber links when compared to the aluminium towers. The front tower is optimised for the longer 29mm stroke shock and features shock mounting positions that are much closer together, allowing finer tuning of the front suspension. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted November 17, 2012 DESC410 Moulded Shock Tower Set This moulded shock tower set contains both front and rear shock towers for your DESC410 vehicle moulded in a high quality engineering composite material. These moulded shock towers are light, offering a 35% weight saving over the aluminium shock towers on the DESC410R model. They are optimised for the DESC410 model, and offer different mounting positions for the shocks and inner camber links when compared to the aluminium towers. The front tower is optimised for the longer 29mm stroke shock and features shock mounting positions that are much closer together, allowing finer tuning of the front suspension. The rear tower is also optimised for the DESC410 model. The upper shock mounting positions are further from the centre of the model and there are more inner camber link mounting positions when compared to the aluminium tower previously used on the DESC410R model. Received from team durango Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted January 6, 2013 Waow Waow Waow :want: Très beau montage vidéo, ça change et c'est bien fait Juste une question: c'est quoi les petites touches de couleurs sur les bouchons d'amorto et sur certaines vis de cellules arrière notamment? A + G-rem Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
